Topic:
Car Speakers
One of the most cost effective upgrades to start with
when building a car audio system is upgrading your factory speakers to
aftermarket door speakers. Not only do they make the most noticeable impact
right off the bat, they can also be very reasonably priced. Most people
build their car audio system in stages, so we always recommend starting with
door speakers since they can be used with a factory stereo or later
connected to an aftermarket head unit or amplifier. We offer a wide range of
door speakers for every make and model so we have something that will work
for any application. Generally door speakers are easy to install and only
require basic hand tools to install them in most vehicles. We are going to
look at the difference between factory and aftermarket speakers along with
the different type of speakers available.
Click any of the links below to skip to a certain part of the page:
Factory speaker quality Why buy
aftermarket speakers? What should I buy? Installation Tips
First why should you consider upgrading your stock
speakers? Well to begin with the car manufacturer will always compensate
quality to cut costs which is bad news for you. 95% of stock factory
speakers only feature a brittle paper cone, a very small magnet, and a thin
foam surround. Factory speakers are very limited as far as acoustical
quality, and output. So let’s say you have a car that is 7 years old and
still has the original factory speakers. With the combination of cheap
materials and 7 years of usage those speakers are not going to perform very
well. Even after 1 to 2 years, factory speakers start to break down. Keep
in mind that even though some factory systems that are advertised as
“premium”, these speakers still have plenty of room for improvement.
Now when looking at aftermarket speakers you will
immediately notice that they look much more durable. Aftermarket speakers
will use a variety of materials for the cone depending on the brand, most
brands use materials such as Polypropylene (plastic), Kevlar, and / or other
combinations of synthetic materials. They also feature a much more durable
and sensitive surround which is traditionally made from a soft rubber or
thick foam. One of the best features is the addition of a tweeter found in
full range speakers. They are available in two-way (Midbass and Tweeter),
three-way (Midbass and 2 Tweeters) or in some cases even 4 or 5-way (Midbass
and 3 or 4 tweeters). Another speaker option is component sets; these allow
you to separate the mid-bass driver and tweeter to achieve maximum sound
quality. When installing a component set the mid bass driver will usually
install into the factory speaker spot, the tweeter can be mounted
independently either on the dash, in the door panel, or in the headliner.
Though component speakers allow better sound quality control, full range
speakers can also be mounted into the existing factory speaker opening
making them much easier to install.
Every vehicle features a different size speaker, so you
need to find the correct replacement. The good news is the actual size of
the speakers has been standardized. This means any vehicle will feature one
or more of these sizes: 3.5”, 4”, 4x6”, 5.25”, 6.5”, 5x7”, 6x8” or 6x9”. In
general import vehicles use 5.25” or 6.5” size. Ford uses 5x7” or 6x8”
speakers; however it can vary depending on the vehicle. If you are not sure
what size speakers you need for your application you can always contact us
via email:
sales@hifisoundconnection.com. Most vehicles will feature two pairs of
speakers, normally one pair in the front doors and another pair in the rear
doors, or the rear deck. Many times the factory wiring can be reused so you
can just disconnect the factory speakers, then simply reconnect the
aftermarket speakers.
We are going to take a look at a typical aftermarket
speaker installation process for the front doors of a passenger vehicle.
This same basic process applies to all vehicles only the method changes.
First, we need to remove the door panel. This can be the most intimidating
step, however looking closely at the door you will normally see screws or
bolts that have to be removed. That is the first step and I have outlined
the screw locations on this door panel.

Next we need to examine how else the panel may be
attached. This usually means there will be snap clips that hold the panel to
the door. These can be popped out using a special clip pry tool or by hand
if you firmly but carefully pull outward on the panel. I have circled the
pop out clips which are on the back side of the door panel.
Once all the clips are popped you need to check for any
additional harnesses or hardware that may still keep the panel in place. On
this particular vehicle we had to disconnect the window / door lock
switches. Once everything is disconnected the panel can be moved off to the
side. Be sure to keep all the hardware together in one place and make notes
if needed for reassembly later.

Now that the panel is removed you can see the exposed
door skin and speaker. In most cases the speakers will be held into place
using screws that have hex heads on them. In this particular vehicle it had
3/16” hex head screws. Remove the screws and from the speaker, be sure to
keep them, you will need to reuse them to install your new speakers.


Next let’s take a look at the aftermarket speakers we
are installing. Almost all brand name speakers will include a harness with
them. This harness plugs onto the aftermarket speaker itself and will look
like the image below.

Now we
actually need to connect the aftermarket speaker harness to the vehicle. You
can actually cut off the factory speaker wire connector and hardwire your
new speaker. You will have two wires, one of which is positive and the other
negative. The colors will vary depending on the vehicle you will not know
which wire is negative and which is positive. We can actually help you with
this problem.
If you need to
know the colors for you vehicle feel free to contact us at
sales@hifisoundconnection.com. Once you have that information most
speakers will include one of two crimp connector types which we HIGHLY
recommend using. DO NOT just tie the wires together and electrical tape
over them. This will cause you headaches later on when you have to hunt
for electrical shorts. Take your time and make sure you have a good solid
connection using either type of the crimp connectors below. These both will
hold up a 20 lbs pull on them so they will not come out.


We have finally arrived at the last step. Once the
speaker harness is attached to the factory speaker wire the new aftermarket
speaker can be screwed into the existing hole. The door panel at this point
just needs to be reinstalled using the same method it was removed, you can
start the process again on the passenger’s side door. You can see the final
installed images below which the same hex screws from the factory speakers
were used to install the new speakers.


So what did I use a far as tools during this whole
process? Surprisingly only few, a set of wire crimpers, wire strippers, a
Phillips screwdriver, and a 3/16” hex bit. My best advice to you is during
installations; make sure you have a clean work area, the right tools, and
lots of patience. By completing your own car audio install you will be in
complete control of the quality, and you will save lots of money.

Click below to view our selection of:
3.5" Speakers -
4" Speakers -
4" x 10" Speakers -
4" x 6" Speakers -
5.25" Speakers -
6.5" Speakers
6" x 8" Speakers -
6" x 9" Speakers -
Component Speakers -
Tweeters
Popular speaker brands include:
JL Audio Speakers -
Kicker Speakers -
Infinity Speakers -
MB Quart Speakers -
Alpine Speakers
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